Some great tips there, and some that are completely WRONG for rigging other brands of Cambered sails.
Dont follow his tips as Dogma. Listen to what your sailmaker says.
Some great tips there, and some that are completely WRONG for rigging other brands of Cambered sails.
Dont follow his tips as Dogma. Listen to what your sailmaker says.
For example?
Some great tips there, and some that are completely WRONG for rigging other brands of Cambered sails.
Dont follow his tips as Dogma. Listen to what your sailmaker says.
For example?
Guy Cribb suggests back harness lines should be one-third down the boom. But most slalom sails with double luff tube has a CE at about the position where the big luff pocket joints together. This is way forward of one-third of boom
Using the harness bar to downhaul may cause it to crack prematurely. I used a long big screwdriver (be sure that plastic handle won't snap!) and now just use a piece of inner tube wrapped around my hand.
Some great tips there, and some that are completely WRONG for rigging other brands of Cambered sails.
Dont follow his tips as Dogma. Listen to what your sailmaker says.
For example?
Ezzy. Just enough downhaul to put the boom on, nearly fully outhaul, cams on, then downhaul. Easy. Derig, release downhaul, cams odd, release outhaul.
Fairly certain Ive seen other brands saying stuff like downhaul until something like 10cm from max then put cams on. Some in a specific order so they dont pop off.
Listen to what your sailmaker says.
There are some good tips in there. I use marlinspike hitch rather than bowline as its quicker to use before and after applying downhaul, especially with sails requiring higher downhaul tension.
Using the harness bar to downhaul may cause it to crack prematurely. I used a long big screwdriver (be sure that plastic handle won't snap!) and now just use a piece of inner tube wrapped around my hand.
Dakine bars are flimsy.
Using the harness bar to downhaul may cause it to crack prematurely. I used a long big screwdriver (be sure that plastic handle won't snap!) and now just use a piece of inner tube wrapped around my hand.
Dakine bars are flimsy.
I use a bowline over the back of my hand to add the last bit of downhaul to my sail. I then don't need a rig puller.
But then again I'm only rigging wave sails and bigger rigs need more effort when applying full downhaul.
It's worth remembering that downhaul is used to bend the mast and if you struggle to bend the mast with downhaul, then the advice to use outhaul is not just to help get cams on the mast but because outhaul bends the mast efficiently with 'bow and arrow' effect.
(Downhaul tension is trying to bend that same mast via compression, from mast base to tip, so that's why it's often hard work.)
The spreader bar breakage issue is a separate problem. They tend to go where cheaper stainless steel has been used when welding the hook to the bar. If that stainless weld then rusts, it expands, and that can split open the tube, breaking the engineered strength just where we load the bar via our harness lines. The tiniest of holes eventually spreads as a split in the bar tube and then it bends completely.
I doubt this issue is brand specific. My tip with any spreader bar is to keep checking the hook weld for obvious signs of rust.
Second basher, I also broke an ion after 1 year, never used that one for downhauling. Yes I agree about the rust around the welds.
And yes again with outhaul tension will ease downhauling effort.
I don't remember downhauling effort being different between small and big sizes? Rigged 9.2 to 3.7 frequently.
I use the video technique rigging my Duotone Warp and KA race sails, with the Duotone Power XT 2.0 mast extension, in less than 5 minutes.
The Power XT 2.0 is the single best windsurfing invention in the last few years.
Ditto to Daffy on use of Marlinespike Hitch... been using it with a piece of broom handle for years... but now know the name of it! Tnx Daffy.
Using the harness bar to downhaul may cause it to crack prematurely. I used a long big screwdriver (be sure that plastic handle won't snap!) and now just use a piece of inner tube wrapped around my hand.
Dakine bars are flimsy.
I use a bowline over the back of my hand to add the last bit of downhaul to my sail. I then don't need a rig puller.
But then again I'm only rigging wave sails and bigger rigs need more effort when applying full downhaul.
It's worth remembering that downhaul is used to bend the mast and if you struggle to bend the mast with downhaul, then the advice to use outhaul is not just to help get cams on the mast but because outhaul bends the mast efficiently with 'bow and arrow' effect.
(Downhaul tension is trying to bend that same mast via compression, from mast base to tip, so that's why it's often hard work.)
The spreader bar breakage issue is a separate problem. They tend to go where cheaper stainless steel has been used when welding the hook to the bar. If that stainless weld then rusts, it expands, and that can split open the tube, breaking the engineered strength just where we load the bar via our harness lines. The tiniest of holes eventually spreads as a split in the bar tube and then it bends completely.
I doubt this issue is brand specific. My tip with any spreader bar is to keep checking the hook weld for obvious signs of rust.
Kitesurfing harnesses, bars are stronger. I've had the same bar for 6 years. It is heavy though.
Ditto to Daffy on use of Marlinespike Hitch... been using it with a piece of broom handle for years... but now know the name of it! Tnx Daffy.
I think that credit goes to PhilUK.