Given these strange times we find ourselves in, I thought it might be a good time to share some classic books on the ocean. We're all gonna have plenty of time to read over the coming weeks and months so why not read about the one thing that stills a troubled mind, far from the madding crowds, the sea.
Barbarian Days-A Surfing Life by William Finnegan is a classic!
I've loved this book from page one. It's the classic tale of a surfing life well lived. Finnegan (Bill) takes us through his life from the early days in the States to moving to Honolulu in the late 60s where he really starts to hone the craft, and beyond. While his ability to describe the thrill of surfing waves is exceptional, his take on life and the all-consuming passion that is a life chasing waves, and the ocean is reassuring.
Finnegan describes finding Cloudbreak in the late 70s after hearing whispers about the mysto left - probably one of the first to surf it;
"We climbed a big hill that rose behind the village. They didn't see a lot of tourists here. The trail was dusty and very hot. A few hundred feet up, we came to a good lookout spot. We turned and trained our binoculars on the tiny island across the channel. We were looking straight into the wave. It was coming from the northwest, having wrapped nearly 180 degrees. It was a long, tapering - a very long, very precisely tapering - left. The walls were dark gray against a pale gray sea. This was it. The lineup had an unearthly symmetry. Breaking waves peeled so evenly that they looked like still photographs. There seemed to be no sections. This was it. Staring through the binoculars, I forgot to breathe for entire six-wave sets. This, by God, was it."
If you get a chance, do yourself a favour and read this. It'll stop you going (half) mad while you're sitting around the house.
Cheers mate, great idea. I am due for a new read in the next week or so.....perfect timing! I have considered this book before, your critique has just about sold me.
I am currently reading an old classic "A Pattern of Islands". No surfing, but set in colonial times in the Pacific. Lots of adventures and tales of the mysterious ways of the locals. A great read so far.
Just adding to this thread - a couple of other books I have enjoyed in recent years:
Tim Winton - Breath (Fiction)
Life of Brian - Phil Jarret (Non Fiction)
White Horse Mags (I have a good backlog of these - only mag I buy nowadays) - Epic stories, amazing photography.
Heart of Darkness - Joseph Conrad.
"Difficult" literature, but 168 pages of pure genius.
If you can immerse yourself in it, I guarantee that you will have forgotten the contents of page 1 by the time you get to page 168.
If you've ever wondered where the expression "The Horror! The Horror!" came from, this is it.
And "On the Beach" - Neville Shute 1957.
Alarmingly appropriate at this juncture.
I thought this was good at the start, but a bit long.
This took a lot of getting, but easy read and quite inspirational.
About to start this so I'll let you know.
I started reading that barbarian surfing book a little while ago, it was really good! there was even a section on 'a fin humming'
Helmy, Heart of Darkness is a masterpiece.....so hard to forget that nightmare of a book once finished!
Another equally unforgettable book is 'Under the Volcano' by Lowry. You'll never look at Mescal the same again.
Good Topic Mango, My offering is 'Longitude' by Dava Sobel. a yachty mate put me on to it about 20 years ago, I couldn't put it down. Just copied the paragraph below.
"Longitude is a dramatic human story of an epic scientific quest and Harrison's forty-year obsession with building his perfect timekeeper, known today as the chronometer. Full of heroism and chicanery, it is also a fascinating brief history of astronomy, navigation, and clock-making, and opens a new window on our world.
Some good tips there fellas cheers.
Kela - definitely will check that out - love a good swashbuckling yarn!
Dave - man you're gonna rip into this book mate - it'll have you frothin - (hopefully it's not held up in some quarantine office for too long!)
Sou'wester - Phil Jarratt's a freak man. He's easily this country's premier surf historian - dig reading all Jarrat's work and I'm onto that one next.
Helmy -I've been meaning to read On the Beach for years - thanks for the reminder. And Heart of Darkness - dude - are you kidding me!!! All time Helmy!!!
Noz - yeah man - I read the TC book also. Was blown away at the amount of hardcore partying those crew were into in the eighties. He's still a legend and the fact that he's cleaned right up is inspirational. The snap heard round the world - beast. Also definitely dig classic surf literature. Late sixties, early seventies surf culture is choice. Reckon I was born in the wrong time. I've got a stash in the collection - will post 'em up.
PeeCee - cheers for the tip man. Any salty yarns about the ocean are the goods I reckon - cheers.
Busting down the door by Rabbit. A great read of 70s surf history
For the sailors "Ice Bird" by David Lewis. Adventure with no rescue or Epirbs
In keeping with vibes, I've just finished the Rip Curl story by Tim Baker.
Another classic yarn - part historical non-fiction blast, part business liberation management handbook ( cultivate the freaks!) - this one reads like a who's who of Australian surfing from the seventies to now. Claw, Sing Ding, Michael (and Tommy) Peterson, Terry 'the Sultan of Speed' Fitzgerald, Rabbit, Cheyne Horan, Curren, Fanning, Tyler Wright, (even Steph was on the roster for a spell), Owen, Medina, Dawn Patrol wetties (remember them?) the Search and of course, Bells.
Deadset classic yarns from humble beginnings in Torquay to intercontinental ballistic surf wear.
Old school core and meta-modern madness - the little Aussie brand the could (and did).
Tip!
Select to expand quoteMangoDingo said..
In keeping with vibes, I've just finished the Rip Curl story by Tim Baker.
Another classic yarn - part historical non-fiction blast, part business liberation management handbook ( cultivate the freaks!) - this one reads like a who's who of Australian surfing from the seventies to now. Claw, Sing Ding, Michael (and Tommy) Peterson, Terry 'the Sultan of Speed' Fitzgerald, Rabbit, Cheyne Horan, Curren, Fanning, Tyler Wright, (even Steph was on the roster for a spell), Owen, Medina, Dawn Patrol wetties (remember them?) the Search and of course, Bells.
Deadset classic yarns from humble beginnings in Torquay to intercontinental ballistic surf wear.
Old school core and meta-modern madness - the little Aussie brand the could (and did).
Tip!
I read that too - present from daughter no. 1 who works there.
Enjoyed the early stuff more than the later bits.
Needs another chapter now
Yeah I was waiting for the $350M Kathmandu epilogue.
It must've hit the publisher's print room just prior.
The mindless ferocity of sharks by Brett d'arcy great fiction and depiction of small town surf communities invaded by rich townies, shenanigans of the old man and his cronies plus the amazing bodysurfing of floaty boy. Best descriptions of surfing, waves and a bit of a lost lifestyle I've read. Cracking read, funny as in spots....
Less a book, and more a, well, movie.
Finally watched One California Day and I have to say it's one of the greatest films about surfing and board riding I've seen.
It delves back to the roots of surfing in California and threads itself seamlessly to the here and now with a cast of classic stylists and general rippers.
The first sequence with Joel Tudor is sick. The guy's a freak, whether on a longboard, single fin, sup - whatever. All class.
And so it goes, Alex Knost invoking the spirit of Dora and absolutely killing it on a longboard.
I found myself laughing out loud at how good he is.
Joe Curren (and also some footage of his big bro) at Rincon. Man - I swear to Huey - when I come back, it's gonna be in the late sixties and at Rincon. So sick. Again - laugh out loud sorta stuff. It's a great reminder of how good it is watching fully sick surfers draw the sweetest of lines. It's not whack, whack, whack - hit the lip surfing - it's all about drawing lines, carves, style and remembering where riding waves comes from (well, there is plenty of hacks to be found too) but it's not solely what this is about.
The memorial and paddle out for the late Dale Velzy is genuinely moving - the bloke is credited for being the first to hang ten - supreme legend.
And the soundtrack is a deadset ripper.
If you haven't managed to catch this one - do yourself a favour and get it. It'll be the best 90 minutes you spend in a long time - out of the water.
One of my fav's Mango, the Tyler section and the Malloy's Mexican camping trip are also epic little sections.
I heard they fluked awesome waves at each of the spots with a few storm fronts lighting up the whole coast when they were filming, may be an urban rumour but I like the sound of it.
That sandbar the Curren's surf looks so heavy and hard to surf but they make it look easy!
For sure Souwester- on all accounts.
Tyler's a freak and how good are the waves in the Mexican session?!?
So classic watching the boys paddling around in their outrigger on the search.
There was also a good amount of time dedicated to the shaping bay and the hours and work that goes into mastering the art of shaping boards. It got me inspired to delve harder and support more local, underground shapers.
How's Greg Noll's shed?!? It's like a time capsule full of genuine gold.
And the fact that he's just a massive bloke, out catchin' fish these days.
Gunna be watching that one again SW!
On the subject of Tyler got to spend a few days with him in Torquay Vic 2011 hand delivering my RIDDLER 
even got to watch him shape a board
Select to expand quotefester said..
On the subject of Tyler got to spend a few days with him in Torquay Vic 2011 hand delivering my RIDDLER even got to watch him shape a board
That is nuts Fester! Seriously man, that is an all time yarn.
Hows the the Riddler!?! What a beast- bet it goes unreal. How's the mad rails.
Sick Fester - deadset classic yarn mate.
cheers for the tip on the Kanga reads too.
