that will do me! Ring will be shipped on Monday and I will hack into my cl. Excellent mod!
Select to expand quote
toppleover said..
Couple of neat ideas for the Ozone riders...
Way to go mate.
Thats special.
Select to expand quotetoppleover said..
Couple of neat ideas for the Ozone riders...
Is that the kids/shortys extra small PU loop that you can buy from Ozone dealers, or did you make it?
Select to expand quoteOzone Kites Aus said..toppleover said..
Couple of neat ideas for the Ozone riders...
Is that the kids/shortys extra small PU loop that you can buy from Ozone dealers, or did you make it?
No - it's not my handy work, I just found the pics online.
Slingshot do small chicken loops for both of there bars, I've done around 300km (GPS watch) on one chicken loop without a ring just directly around the rope, Fark all wear on either part, I don't see the need for the extra hard wear. especially as the chicken loops are only $35 bucks, one a season is not a big expense considering our kiting costs.
Hi Horey, I did the same mate - just hooked the CL straight to rope for a full season.
Then I tried the pulley, way smoother as there's less friction. I was surprised at the diff, even took a while to get use to the feel as I was used to the CL grabbing on the rope.
Have not tried a low friction ring yet so...
Topple over, I've had no drama with my cl sticking, I'm just running the short SS Guardian model. stoked with the ride and wear.
Hi toppleover ( and some others also) it looks like you are using a rope with an outer sheathing and inner core as opposed to the single woven line like they use for depower line and often use in rope sliders. I had originally started using this type of sheathed rope and found that it has a lot more friction than the single woven dyneema line. I also had the outer sheathing break a couple times unexpectedly and quite quickly into its use. The inner core holds all the strength so when it broke it wasnt a problem.
I consulted with my local yachting store (Yacht grot in fremantle awesome place for bar mod type stuff) and they pointed me in the direction of the dyneema line which I have found to last a lot longer and be smoother sliding.
I used to have a ss ring on the line and hook into that but for the last 8-10 months I have been hooking the CL straight to the line. I have not had any significant wear on the CL (using a niash one which is quite thick and robust) and the rope is wearing at a normal rate. I also tied an extra bit of rope to my ride engine spreader bar, the rope is looser than the main one so that it will wear less.
I modified my 2015 naish bar by making a very short CL by hacking up the original CL and using a 120mm Dyneema Link (bought from yacht grot) I also took off the stopper block on the depower line which limits the bar throw. This has brought the bar in closer and given me extended throw. I have had this setup for a couple months and I am really liking it. I have had it out in a variety of conditions and have never needed to use the trim yet. I would consider a no trim bar for my next bar modifications.
This is my bar with the stopper block I took off, the dyneema link and an original naish chicken loop
this is a closeup of the CL
This is the Dyneema link I used, I was really stoked when i stumbled on this item as I had been dawdling about learning to splice and stitch my own one. They are very useful little bar mod items, I also included a pic of the part number in case anyone out there wants to order them online. I think mine cost $10 I got it at Yacht Grot fremantle they are a goldmine of nick nacks and have all the different thickness of dyneema line they were also really helpful when I ran my little projects by them.
This bar mod was super easy to do, only tools needed were a knife and needle nose pliers. It could work on quite a few other brands bars aswell.
I really feel like I dont need the trim with this type of setup, I would take a below the bar swivel over having trim as it seems none of the major brands make a compact QR with below the bar swivel and trim cleat. The airush brain QR is very compact with below the bar swivel. I have been eyeing off an airush bar to modify, I would just do a super short CL with no trim and keep it clean and tangle free above the bar
Select to expand quotethank you for the information. I am modifying my set up and replacing it with 120mm Dyneema . cheers
Youngbreezy said..
Hi toppleover ( and some others also) it looks like you are using a rope with an outer sheathing and inner core as opposed to the single woven line like they use for depower line and often use in rope sliders. I had originally started using this type of sheathed rope and found that it has a lot more friction than the single woven dyneema line. I also had the outer sheathing break a couple times unexpectedly and quite quickly into its use. The inner core holds all the strength so when it broke it wasnt a problem.
I consulted with my local yachting store (Yacht grot in fremantle awesome place for bar mod type stuff) and they pointed me in the direction of the dyneema line which I have found to last a lot longer and be smoother sliding.
I used to have a ss ring on the line and hook into that but for the last 8-10 months I have been hooking the CL straight to the line. I have not had any significant wear on the CL (using a niash one which is quite thick and robust) and the rope is wearing at a normal rate. I also tied an extra bit of rope to my ride engine spreader bar, the rope is looser than the main one so that it will wear less.
I modified my 2015 naish bar by making a very short CL by hacking up the original CL and using a 120mm Dyneema Link (bought from yacht grot) I also took off the stopper block on the depower line which limits the bar throw. This has brought the bar in closer and given me extended throw. I have had this setup for a couple months and I am really liking it. I have had it out in a variety of conditions and have never needed to use the trim yet. I would consider a no trim bar for my next bar modifications.
This is my bar with the stopper block I took off, the dyneema link and an original naish chicken loop
this is a closeup of the CL
This is the Dyneema link I used, I was really stoked when i stumbled on this item as I had been dawdling about learning to splice and stitch my own one. They are very useful little bar mod items, I also included a pic of the part number in case anyone out there wants to order them online. I think mine cost $10 I got it at Yacht Grot fremantle they are a goldmine of nick nacks and have all the different thickness of dyneema line they were also really helpful when I ran my little projects by them.
This bar mod was super easy to do, only tools needed were a knife and needle nose pliers. It could work on quite a few other brands bars aswell.
I really feel like I dont need the trim with this type of setup, I would take a below the bar swivel over having trim as it seems none of the major brands make a compact QR with below the bar swivel and trim cleat. The airush brain QR is very compact with below the bar swivel. I have been eyeing off an airush bar to modify, I would just do a super short CL with no trim and keep it clean and tangle free above the bar
Select to expand quoteYoungbreezy said..
Hi toppleover ( and some others also) it looks like you are using a rope with an outer sheathing and inner core as opposed to the single woven line like they use for depower line and often use in rope sliders. I had originally started using this type of sheathed rope and found that it has a lot more friction than the single woven dyneema line. I also had the outer sheathing break a couple times unexpectedly and quite quickly into its use. The inner core holds all the strength so when it broke it wasnt a problem.
I consulted with my local yachting store (Yacht grot in fremantle awesome place for bar mod type stuff) and they pointed me in the direction of the dyneema line which I have found to last a lot longer and be smoother sliding.
I used to have a ss ring on the line and hook into that but for the last 8-10 months I have been hooking the CL straight to the line. I have not had any significant wear on the CL (using a niash one which is quite thick and robust) and the rope is wearing at a normal rate. I also tied an extra bit of rope to my ride engine spreader bar, the rope is looser than the main one so that it will wear less.
I modified my 2015 naish bar by making a very short CL by hacking up the original CL and using a 120mm Dyneema Link (bought from yacht grot) I also took off the stopper block on the depower line which limits the bar throw. This has brought the bar in closer and given me extended throw. I have had this setup for a couple months and I am really liking it. I have had it out in a variety of conditions and have never needed to use the trim yet. I would consider a no trim bar for my next bar modifications.
This is my bar with the stopper block I took off, the dyneema link and an original naish chicken loop
this is a closeup of the CL
This is the Dyneema link I used, I was really stoked when i stumbled on this item as I had been dawdling about learning to splice and stitch my own one. They are very useful little bar mod items, I also included a pic of the part number in case anyone out there wants to order them online. I think mine cost $10 I got it at Yacht Grot fremantle they are a goldmine of nick nacks and have all the different thickness of dyneema line they were also really helpful when I ran my little projects by them.
This bar mod was super easy to do, only tools needed were a knife and needle nose pliers. It could work on quite a few other brands bars aswell.
I really feel like I dont need the trim with this type of setup, I would take a below the bar swivel over having trim as it seems none of the major brands make a compact QR with below the bar swivel and trim cleat. The airush brain QR is very compact with below the bar swivel. I have been eyeing off an airush bar to modify, I would just do a super short CL with no trim and keep it clean and tangle free above the bar
That's Awsome work mate.
Agreed, with the extra throw you don't need the cleat anymore.
Ive been using spectra line because I find it easier to attach it to my bar, as you mentioned the dyneema rope is much more slippery & I'm concerned my figure 8 knots might undo. 
Nice work youngbreezy, our connection to the kite is certainly one area that many brands are working on for the 2018 season.
Select to expand quoteYoungbreezy said..
Hi toppleover ( and some others also) it looks like you are using a rope with an outer sheathing and inner core as opposed to the single woven line like they use for depower line and often use in rope sliders. I had originally started using this type of sheathed rope and found that it has a lot more friction than the single woven dyneema line. I also had the outer sheathing break a couple times unexpectedly and quite quickly into its use. The inner core holds all the strength so when it broke it wasnt a problem.
I consulted with my local yachting store (Yacht grot in fremantle awesome place for bar mod type stuff) and they pointed me in the direction of the dyneema line which I have found to last a lot longer and be smoother sliding.
I've changed now to a low friction ring (Ronstan) & 5mm Dyneema rope.
Just as smooth as the pulley but now simpler with less bits to wear out.
Thanks Yb
Select to expand quoteActionSportsWA said..
Hi Peppedurso,
We sell both Ride Engine and also ION Team Wave. The Ride Engine had the concept first with the stiff back for support and it does this very well. In wearing both, I find the Ride Engine a little more supportive, but the ION is more comfortable for ME.
They are both setup with the rope bridle which allows the chicken loop to slide from side to side to allow unrestricted wave riding performance (both can be set up with a fixed hook). I think the wider spreader on the Ride Engine does this a little better with more movement range and a more durable concept. I find the ION is easier to setup, adjust and more comfortable.
There is a significant cost attached to the Ride Engine over the ION and from the feedback I have received, most people feel it is a big hit to the wallet, but worth it. I haven't had enough experience on the Ride Engine to give an informed personal opinion as yet.
Both are a good jump up on regular designed harnesses. The softer sided better padded ION wins it in terms of comfort, but I think the Ride Engine probably has it over the ION in terms of back support.
Best to drop in to a shop and try them on back to back. Harnesses are always such a personal item.
DM
Hi ActionSportsWA,
thank you for your reply and sorry for my late one. Meanwhile I had the chance to try the ION Team Wave. I would say it's just a normal harness with a rigid back. Not very impressed. Regarding the quality is top notch, like any ION product.I'll definitely stick with Da Kine C-1, for me, in this moment, it's the best compromise, more rigid than a traditional one and do not break your bank account. I definitely don't like traditional harnesses, rigid harness and sliding rope spreader bar is the way to go. Looks like there is a lot of attention on this topic, Mystic came out with his own carbon harness, very similar to Ride Engine, nice look and quality. According to what they say should be a bit less rigid than RE, with a better torsion. That might make it a bit more comfortableRegarding bar: the modified Naish and Ozone I've seen in previous posts looks sick, why kite industry doesn't make any specific wave bar? I make my own, tested in the last 3 year in Cape Town with very strong winds, light and responsive, this is what we need.
I'm ready to rock with low friction ring and shortened chicken loop.
Man. What a royal pain in the arse shortening the chicken loop!
Select to expand quotePlummet said..
I'm ready to rock with low friction ring and shortened chicken loop.
Man. What a royal pain in the arse shortening the chicken loop!
I have the new ring as well, but have not gotten around to shortening the chicken loop. Why was it so hard?
Select to expand quotedafish said..Plummet said..
I'm ready to rock with low friction ring and shortened chicken loop.
Man. What a royal pain in the arse shortening the chicken loop!
I have the new ring as well, but have not gotten around to shortening the chicken loop. Why was it so hard?
The rope on the inside has to be sliced perfectly to the correct dimension or the QR doesn't work. Its an interference fit to get the rope through the plastic outer sheath. I got the process in the end. But man was it fiddly!
Coming soon. $59 upgrade to your bar and quick release work amazing with all rope slider harnesses.
Select to expand quotePlummet said..
I'm ready to rock with low friction ring and shortened chicken loop.
Man. What a royal pain in the arse shortening the chicken loop!
We are not sure reducing CL length and save 2-3cm it's worth, by using a different QR attachment saves more centimeters and is more simple.
About rings, we decided to respond to demand of "low friction sliding ring" and we are testing a new product like the ANTAL ring but in plastic.
It is designed to fit the CL tube and retain it to avoid unwanted exit from the ring and let the tube slip off when the QR is activated. This is the shape without retain system and as soon as we test it we will let you know.
Low friction ring and shortened chicken loop saved 10cm on the original standard CL and D ring set up
Select to expand quoteSlingshotAust said..
Coming soon. $59 upgrade to your bar and quick release work amazing with all rope slider harnesses.
Yes!!!!
Love ya work slingshot, so simple so effective!
This is simple little mod should become an industry standard option
Select to expand quoteHad a good test today of lfr and shortened chicken loop.
It was super smooth and lush!... oh year. Had to pull the safety to land in 30+ knots. That worked a treat also.
Got washed in a couple of times in the dumping surf. The lfr didn't pop off.
All and all a good set up.
Select to expand quotePlummet said..
Low friction ring and shortened chicken loop saved 10cm on the original standard CL and D ring set up
Hey Plums
Thats an awesome set up.
Maybe add a second rope slider for added security.
Take notes Ozone!!!?
Well done.Love it.
Added functionality with shortening CL ,adding the Antal ring for very smooth action.
More homework coming up.
Arrh!!!
I've got the Slingshot Talon coming my way when they arrive, will post review when we get some wind.
Select to expand quotehorey69 said..
I've got the Slingshot Talon coming my way when they arrive, will post review when we get some wind.
Look forward to that Horey.
Hope Ozone and a few other big names come up with some innovative improvements.
Select to expand quoteLeighMajor said..Plummet said..
Low friction ring and shortened chicken loop saved 10cm on the original standard CL and D ring set up
Hey Plums
Thats an awesome set up.
Maybe add a second rope slider for added security.
Take notes Ozone!!!?
Well done.Love it.
Added functionality with shortening CL ,adding the Antal ring for very smooth action.
More homework coming up.
Arrh!!!
Had another session on sunday on the foil. Supreme smoothness and awesome toeside action. Its good.
Now. How do you teather launch on 40+ knots?
Select to expand quotePlummet said..LeighMajor said..Plummet said..
Low friction ring and shortened chicken loop saved 10cm on the original standard CL and D ring set up
Hey Plums
Thats an awesome set up.
Maybe add a second rope slider for added security.
Take notes Ozone!!!?
Well done.Love it.
Added functionality with shortening CL ,adding the Antal ring for very smooth action.
More homework coming up.
Arrh!!!
Had another session on sunday on the foil. Supreme smoothness and awesome toeside action. Its good.
Now. How do you teather launch on 40+ knots?
Attach tether just above chicken loop
With carabiner or clip hook of your choice.
Add some length to tether line so you have room to hook up to the kite.
Done.
Select to expand quoteGreenarrowz said..Plummet said..LeighMajor said
Had another session on sunday on the foil. Supreme smoothness and awesome toeside action. Its good.
Now. How do you teather launch on 40+ knots?
Attach tether just above chicken loop
With carabiner or clip hook of your choice.
Add some length to tether line so you have room to hook up to the kite.
Done.
Good idea 99!. I'll sort that out.
I don't teather that often, But when I do its blowing 40 bastards!
